America 2009

Mexican Hat to Flagstaff

So we'd ended up in Mexican Hat, Utah by accident, which meant today's main goal was to get back to Arizona where we were supposed to be headed. So we dug out our maps and colouring pencils and set about making a plan. The proprietor of the motel saw us and got chatting; she was quite jealous and wanted to be able to travel again. She suggested a few places we could try along the way that we might find interesting.

As soon as we stepped outside I had one of those moments; we'd arrived in the middle of the night to a tiny little backwater town in deepest darkest southern Utah, with little idea what was actually here. So when I stepped out and found myself surrounded by red cliffs and brilliant blue skies it was quite something. Just to add to the surrealism, something very black, very fast and very low screamed overhead in a giant lazy circle, no doubt off to some top secret military installation! Not the first time we've had flyovers either; seems to be something that happe...

Durango to Mexican Hat

Plan for the 28th was to head out of Colorado and into Arizona. So that's pretty much what we did. Left Durango and headed for Arizona. Stopped at a small trading post that sold Indian goods and had a good look there. Lots of interesting rocks, I bought some magnetic "hematite" which is pretty fun, though reading more on the net I'm not convinced what I got is really hematite as true hematite is only very faintly magnetic, but these stones are incredibly strong magnets. But for 25c each I'm not complaining; they're fun to play with.

Shortly after we crossed into New Mexico again, and then very shortly afterwards into Arizona. This part of the States is called Four Corners because it is the only part of the States where four different states meet at a common point. There's a nice little monument here so we rolled up and paid the $6 to get in and had a look around. We're in Navajo Nation here which is the largest of the Indian reservations, so surrounding the actual monument ...

The Durango and Silverton

Had a very early start on the 27th; alarm went off at 6:20am! Was on the road by 6:45 and into Durango just after 7 to collect my Fall Photographers Special tickets. Was supposed to collect them by 7, but had to stop off on the way for some snacks, and then when arriving at the station found there was a $7 parking fee! So I wasn't impressed when I arrived at the ticket counter and had to wait ages for the guy in front of me to leisurely book his tickets. But got tickets ok and boarded the train and we were soon on our way. Soon became apparent that there was no open carriage on this train which made no sense at all, after all on a photographers special chances are one or two people might want to take photos without having to awkwardly lean out a window! And what really topped it off was when the conductor mentioned that there were still a few tickets available to the night photo special, yet when I'd booked a week earlier the lady on the phone had said they were all full! So I coul...

Alamosa to Durango

Another day, another train trip! Gosh life is tough down here in southern Colorado. Woke up bright and early for the Potato Train on the 26th, a mixed freight from Alamosa to Monte Vista. Got our tickets and also purchased a San Lois and Rio Grande cap and tee-shirt, as their clothing was much nicer than the C&T stuff. Went down to the station after that, met the conductor who said we still had a good 15 minutes to kill before departure, so we went across the road to the local farmers market. Lots of veges, a beautiful husky, watermelons the sized of basketballs, some crochet, and other assorted small town trinkets. Went back and boarded our train. We made up half the passengers! It was very low key and fun, and had a good chat with the conductor. When he heard we were off to Durango he drew us a map and timetable so that we could follow the Cumbres and Toltec and chase it into Chama, NM. Bit of a railfan himself obviously :-)

So we trundled along the line in a massive ...

Cubres and Toltec

Another early start on the 25th, this one not so bad though. Was originally booked on the 8:15am train to Antonito, but the SL&RG needed the loco for other things so the train was cancelled. We were quite possibly the only ones booked on it if the train to Monte Vista was anything to go by. So drove down there with absolutely no idea where the station was, but as soon as we entered town I saw a plume of smoke so it was pretty easy to find. Got our tickets and went to admire the train.

Now this is a proper steam loco! Baldwin built (same as some of the nicer NZ steam locos), Rio Grande heritage. 2-8-2 wheel configuration, simply massive snow plough and bristling with pumps, pipes, valves and so forth. Every minute or so something deep inside of her would wurr at quite a low frequency which made her sound like she purring.

We soon boarded (Angela dragging me away from the front of the train) and had our tickets punched. Ther...